Ellie’s sleeping in so I swim out to the pontoon opposite the hotel and soak up some rays. The rocks are slippery underneath and a lone girl wearing a purple bobble hat sits on the shore with her camera snapping photos of possibly me but more likely not me. Looking up a long wave of dark pine courses up the hill a mild tivano breeze rustling the tree tops.
The water is so much warmer than the air temperature unless you’re in the sun. It must be 18ºc. with the wind blowing whereas the water feels like 20-22ºc.
I asked the waiter the night before about swimming across to Menaggio, he looked at me with wide eyes ‘Oh no signor, not a good idea. The last man to swim across was chopped up into very small pieces by the Como to Tremezzo hydrofoil. The fish I think were happy. The mans family not so”. Shore swim it is then.
Swimming along the Como shoreline the water is about 6m. deep below me, languorous zebra striped perch swim along gulping happily. I see what I think might be a tench although the bottom here is quite stony so not sure this is their natural habitat. I swim past a vast abandoned wire making warehouse (Fabrica di Fili) its wooden pier crumbling slowly in to the water. I’m keeping a constant eye over my shoulder for the Lezzeno ferry, I don’t want to end up as fish food this morning.
I have to put on a bit of speed as I can see the looming hull about a kilometre away coming on quickly, I swim up to a moored speed boat and tread water until the ferry disgorges its passengers. A little boy points to me in the water, there aren’t any swimmers at this time of year so I look a bit out of place treading water under the grey October sky. I swim back to the hotel looking forward very much to a big prima colazione con cornetto e caffè.